A Horseman’s Journey: From Mountain trails to Lasting Memories
By Jigmat Lundup, 2025
Sonam Angchuk, 74, comes from Sumda Chenmo, a remote village along the Lamayuru-Chilling trekking route. After serving as a soldier, he spent nearly 20 years as a horseman, guiding treks with his Zanskari horses, known for their strength and endurance. He started with two horses and later grew his herd to six or seven, mainly sourcing them from Wanla and nearby areas. His favorite trek was the Wanla-Chilling route, where he knew every trail and grazing spot intimately. In Sumda Chenmo, horses were not only vital for transportation and treks but also served as symbols of prestige and an essential part of daily life.
One of Sonam Angchuk’s most cherished companions was a remarkable Zanskari horse he acquired after a series of trades. This horse came from Lingshet, then moved to Changthang, and finally reached Sumda Chenmo. Known for its immense strength and stubborn nature, this horse was initially difficult to tame. It was untrained and hard to ride. But through persistent care, Sonam Angchuk fed it high-quality barley and trained it daily. Over time, they built an unbreakable bond. This horse possessed a rare combination of Changshes and Kongshok. As a Changshes, it had an uncanny ability to sense and predict events, acting as a silent guardian for Sonam Angchuk during both daily chores and treks. Its Kongshok, mystical wings believed to give it extraordinary stamina, allowed it to endure the hardest trails and the longest journeys without faltering. The horse’s loyalty was evident in every step, standing by Sonam Angchuk through thick and thin.
Sonam Angchuk had envisioned retiring with this exceptional horse, continuing their journey together as lifelong partners. However, in 2010, his dream was shattered when the horse was tragically killed by a wolf. The loss left a deep void in Sonam Angchuk’s heart, and even now, he holds its memory close, seeing it as a symbol of his life’s dedication to the rugged world of horsemen.
In 2015, due to age and rising costs of feeding and maintaining his horses, Sonam Angchuk decided to retire, selling his herd. Despite this, his connection to the horses remains strong. Now living in Choglamsar, on the outskirts of Leh, Sonam Angchuk finds peace in the occasional sighting of horses near his home. Whenever he spots a horse, whether it is the same color as his cherished companion, white, or any horse at all, it evokes warm memories of his days as a horseman in the mountains. Sometimes, he feeds them grass, a quiet ritual that connects him to his past and reminds him of the bond he shared with his trusted companions on the rugged trails of Ladakh.
