The Hidden Village
By Jigmat Lundup, 2021
Relakung is somewhat a hidden village. From Phey in Zanskar, it can be reached by crossing a steep pass of 5,180 meters. Relakung has two communities, Relakung-Nangma and Relakung Phima, which together have about 10 houses. The setting of the village is unique, perched at more than 4,000 meters, and bounded by two glaciers, Hamiling Kangri, and Zanskar Langgo Kangri. In Relakung, summers are short, and winters are long and harsh. While Relakung is in Zanskar, its inhabitants seem to consider themselves apart from the rest of the region. When they want to go to Padum or Phey, they say, “let’s go to Zanskar.” When a visitor comes from Padum or elsewhere in Zanskar, the people of Relakung often call them “Zanskarpa.”
What brought the establishment of a settlement in this isolated corner of Zanskar? According to a story shared by Tsering Lhamo of Relakung-Phima, Relakung was established by meme Kabchu, a Tibetan Khampa. Meme Kabchu would have come to Relakung after fighting with his brother from the palace of Zangla. To compete with his brother, he had built a building in Relakung similar to the palace of Zangla. With meme Kabchu, it is said that Relakung became associated with aristocratic lineages. At some point, a wife was brought from Dakshos, a royal family from Khalatse.
It is to ensure the continuity of the lineage of Phima Kangpa that Tsering Lhamo was brought from Stogdey to Relakung at the young age of 12. The son of the couple at Phima Kangpa had passed away soon after marrying, while their daughter had already married to a house in Karsha. Tsering Lhamo’s uncle, a monk from Stongdey, used to do rituals at Phima Kangpa and was aware of the situation. This is how Tsering Lhamo was brought to Phima Kangpa, along with the couple’s grandson, who was from Karsha. The boy and the girl’s future marriage was fixed in the process.
It is only when she was a bit older that Tsering Lhamo came to realize all the decisions that had been made for her. Whenever she was visiting her relatives at Tsazar or Stongdey, she would fiercely resist returning to Relakung. When she had her first child, she went back to Stongdey for a whole year. She was adamant, she did not want to go back to Relakung. At some point, she had to concede to her destiny and return there. Still, whenever her uncle would visit, she would insist that he takes her back to Stongdey. She used to cry a lot. Tsering Lhamo confided that whenever she went through difficult times, her only way to overcome sadness was to sing songs and playing the local drum.
